Internet Info 1994 March/Internet Info CD-ROM (Walnut Creek) (March 1994).iso/answers/rec/crafts/textiles/faq

Text File | 1994-04-06 | 48.9 KB | 1,329 lines

Newsgroups: rec.crafts.textiles,rec.crafts.quilting,alt.sewing,rec.answers,alt.answers,news.answers
Path: bloom-beacon.mit.edu!hookup!batcomputer!cornell!alg
From: [e-mail] (Anne Louise Gockel)
Subject:  Textiles FAQ
Message-ID: <[e-mail]>
Followup-To: rec.crafts.textiles
Summary: Answers to Frequently Asked Questions in the rec.crafts.textiles and
    alt.sewing newsgroups.  Includes charters of the groups, lists of
    sources, info on quiling groups and info on natural fabrics.
Keywords: FAQ, textiles, sewing, outdoor, crafts, quilt
Sender: [e-mail] (Anne Louise Gockel)
Supersedes: <[e-mail]>
Reply-To: [e-mail]
Organization: Cornell Univ. CS Dept, Ithaca NY 14853
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 1994 10:40:43 GMT
Approved: [e-mail]
Expires: Wed, 8 Jun 1994 10:40:25 GMT
Lines: 1308
Xref: bloom-beacon.mit.edu rec.crafts.textiles:7029 rec.crafts.quilting:2099 alt.sewing:7413 rec.answers:4761 alt.answers:2341 news.answers:17698

Archive-name: crafts/textiles/faq
Last-modified: 25 Jan 1994



The following is the first of three lists of Frequently Asked Questions for
the alt.sewing and rec.crafts.textiles groups.  I plan to use the same FAQs
for both newsgroups as long as most of the questions remain pertinent to both
groups.

Like most of us, I don't know all the answers, I've just collected the wisdom
of the net.  Many of these answers have been culled for postings over the last
year or so.  Many regular posters have contributed to this list through their
postings and e-mail.  Any additions or comments are appreciated and can be
mailed to me.

                    -Anne Louise Gockel
                    Cornell Computer Science

Internet: [e-mail]        UUCP: cornell!alg
-----------------------------------------------------------------
The first list concentrates on general sewing questions and supply information
and restoring antique sewing machines.  The second list concentrates on
costuming and historical clothing.  The third posting contains a list of books
that cover sewing, fitting and pattern drafting.

Some of these answers are fairly lengthy so I have used "ctrl-L" between the
different questions in this FAQ.  Note: within the "rn" news reader you can
use:
      g 1)
at the "More --##%--" prompt to go directly to question 1).


Questions addressed:

1) Where can I discuss xyzzy (weaving, spinning, flower arrangements,
   dyeing etc)?
2) Where can I get material for outdoor gear or windsocks?
3) What's the best brand of sewing machine or serger?
4) What are the addresses of various places?
5) What are the best periodicals and sources for Heirloom Sewing (also known
   as French Hand Sewing) projects?
6) Where can I get natural fabrics by mail order?
7) Would anyone like to exchange quilt blocks? Is there a quilting maillist?
8) I've just been given my Great Grandmother's sewing machine.
   Can anyone help me fix it or restore it?
9) Where can I get an up to date copy of this FAQ?


Significant changes since posting of 1/17/94:
    1) Pointer to crafts-textiles-business maillist
    1) Pointer to Seattle Textile Computer Users Group
    4) Great Fit patterns





1) Where can I discuss xyzzy (weaving, spinning, flower arrangements, dyeing
etc)?

There are four news groups for various handcrafts.  The original group
alt.sewing is primarily for sewing topics.  Other topics are discussed there
occassionally, but we now have the groups rec.crafts.textiles for sewing,
needlecraft and non-sewing discussions and rec.crafts.misc for other
handcrafts.  In August, 1993 the group rec.crafts.quilting was created to
cover quilting and related topics.  Postings and questions from novices and
experts are encouraged in all newsgroups.  Readers enjoy the chance to help
someone get started with a new craft.


The original charter for the unmoderated group rec.crafts.textile is:

This newsgroup is for discussing all fiber and textile related interests that
are not covered by another rec.crafts group.  This includes, but is not
limited to, sewing, weaving, spinning, knitting, crochet, quilting,
embroidery, cross stitch, tatting, lacemaking and dyeing.  Discussions may
cover techniques, supplies and equipment, drafting of patterns, artistic
approaches, exhibitions or shows, books or other references.  Textiles
includes both textiles to be worn or used in a home and textiles created for
display.


The original charter for the unmoderated group rec.crafts.misc is:

This newsgroup is for discussing all crafts and hobbies that are not covered
by another rec or rec.crafts group.  Such crafts may include, but are not
limited to, jewelry making, metalwork, leatherwork, papermaking, dollmaking,
instrument making, and stained glass.  Some subjects discussed in
rec.crafts.misc may overlap other rec.crafts groups.


The original charter for the unmoderated group rec.crafts.quilting is:

This newsgroup is for discussing anything related to quilting.  It includes
piecing, applique, and tying and quilting by hand or machine.  Discussions may
cover techniques, supplies, equipment, drafting of patterns, templates, dyeing
materials, artistic approaches, exhibitions, shows, books and other
references, mail order resources, dating quilts and appraising quilts.
Discussions may include quilts and quilting both past (historical quilting)
and present, ethnic quilting, quilts to be used in a home, quilted clothing to
be worn, as well as quilts created for display and any other piecing or
quilting applications.


There is a maillist for knitting.  To join, send mail to [e-mail]
and in the BODY of your message put:
    subscribe knit FirstName LastName


Fibernet is a bulletin board run by Ron Parker in Henning, Minnesota.  It's a
pretty active boards--there's usually 30-50 messages a week posted, mostly on
spinning, weaving, knitting and dyeing. The phone number is 218-583-4337; the
modems handle 1200-14,400 baud, 8N1.  There are no charges for using the
bulletin board and there is a program to allow you to upload and download
files to read at your leisure for maximum efficiency.  In addition to the
bulletin board Fibernet provides access to several Usenet newsgroups as well
as lots of fiber-related software available for downloading - includinf
freeware, shareware and demos of commercial products.

For a packet of information about FiberNet send a SASE to Ron Parker, Rt. 1,
Box 153, Henning, MN.  If you send him $5.00 and the details about which
computer you use, he'll send you a disc with the off-line reader and other
good stuff on it.  If you have any questions, his voice line is (218)
583-2419, between 7:00 a.m. and 7:00 p.m. central time.

Fibernet is echoed on two satellite nodes: Alaksa Pirate Society in
Anchorage, AK at 907-248-9364 and 9365, sysop Patti Johnson; and
Some Sunny Day BBS in Connersville, IN at 317-825-5044, sysop Steve
Read.  Both BBSs accept calles at up to 14,400 bps


There is a BBS called Arachne's Web in Alexandria, VA.  The sysop is Karl
Weiss, and they handle up to 2400 baud.  The phone number is 703-765-1288.
Arachne's Web is free.

The Seattle Textile Computer Users Group publishes a newsletter called
"Fiberbits", where they review software available for all types of textile
work - sewing, cross stitch, knitting, quilting, weaving, you name it.  As of
1994, the subscription price may be $18/year.
    Fiberbits
    P. O. Box 17506
    Seattle, WA  98107

There is a listserv maillist called CRAFTS-L available from BIGVAX.ALFRED.EDU.
For more information you can send the command "HELP" in the *body* of a mail
message to [e-mail].

Teri Miller ([e-mail]) runs a maillist for discussions relating to
owning and running a crafts business.  This includes discussions of how to
start a business, and information from people who have already started their
own businesses.  Short ads are welcome here.  Contact Teri if you're
interested in joining.

Historic Costume Maillist:
     Contact:  [e-mail]
     Purpose:  This list concentrates on recreating period elegance, from
     the Bronze age to the mid-20th Century.  Its emphasis is on accurate
     historical reproduction of clothing, historical techniques for
     garment construction, and the application of those techniques in
     modern clothing design.  Other topics appropriate for discussion
     include adapting historical clothing for the modern figure, clothing
     evolution, theatrical costumes, patterns, materials, books, and
     sources for supplies.  Members of the SCA should note that this list
     discusses historic costume of all eras, not just the SCA period.
     General conversations about the SCA are not suitable for this list.
     Other topics not suitable for this list include halloween and
     children's dress-up costumes, and advertisements for vintage clothing
     (for sale or wanted).


QuiltNet and Quilting Exchange Maillists: See question 7) below:
   Would anyone like to exchange quilt blocks? Is there a quilting maillist?


Acknowledgements:
Anne Louise Gockel <[e-mail]>
[e-mail] (Diane Barlow Close)
[e-mail] (Ann Durham)
[e-mail] (Jill McAllister)
[e-mail] (Jennifer Griffin)
Ron Parker <[e-mail]>
[e-mail] (Jim Roe and Susan Yount)




2) Where can I get material for outdoor gear?

The Rain Shed
707 NW 11th
Corvallis, OR  97330
[phone]
- Also carries reflective fabric and patterns for windsocks.

The Green Pepper
3918 West First Avenue
Eugene, OR  97402
[phone]
- Also carries neoprene fabric.

Frostline Kits
2512 W. Independent Avenue
Grand Junction, CO  81505-7200
(800) KITS-USA
- Also carries down, and down kits.

Outdoor Wilderness Fabrics
2511 Latah Drive
Nampa, ID 83651
[phone]
- Will do wholesale prices if large purchase.

Mountain Mend
1580 Canyon
Boulder, CO
[phone]
- No additional information [alg].

Seattle Fabrics
3878 Bridge Way N
Seattle 98103
[phone]
- canvas, gor-tex, polarplus, etc.

Daisy Kingdom
134 NW 8th
Portland, OR
[phone]
800-234-6688 or 503-222-3817; FAX [phone].
$2.00 for nursery/craft catalogue.
Mastercard, Visa, UPS an Fed Ex.
- They sell outdoor fabrics and also patterns. They
do sell by mail order.

Sewing Sampler Productions
PO Box 39
Springfield, MN 56087
[phone]  or [phone]
- Nylon Supplex

Sew Natural Fabrics by Mail
4650 Bishop Road
Mechanicsville MD 20659
[phone]  or  [phone]
- Ultrex (breathable waterproof microcoated supplex for raincoats, etc)

Narain's Outdoor Equipment
Berkeley, CA
[phone]
- They are in Berkeley next door to REI.  They carry Gore-tex,
but they are not mail order [alg].

Malden Mills
Lawrence, Mass
[phone]
- Near Mass/NH border.  Factory outlet store with large
discounts on PolorPlus (Synchilla) and PolarLite.  Open Tues,
Thurs, Fri only 10-6.  No Mail Order!


In England:

Pennine Outdoor    Tel [phone] and 684302
Hard Knott
Holmbridge
Huddersfield
W. Yorkshire
England

Tor Outdoor Pursuits
3 Fryer Sreeet
Runcorn
Cheshire
WA7 1ND

They are both good and the service is rapid.  Pennine have slightly more
variety and are somewhat more expensive.


In Canada:

Textile Outfitters Inc.
(see question 6) below)


Books and Articles:

Article by Rochelle Harper in Threads #25 (Oct/Nov 1989) on making a copy of a
Patagonia jacket.

Article in Threads #19 about different water resistant fabrics.  Also
discusses copying a London Fog raincoat.

Artile in Threads #46 about making a mid-weight raincoat with a zip-out lining.

_Sew and Repair Your Outdoor Gear_ by Louise Lindgren Sumner, published by the
Mountaineers, copyright 1988, $14.95 (paper) ISBN 0-89886-057-1.

An article in Sew News July 1991 about sewing boat covers mentions three
books: _Big Boat of Boat Canvas_, _Complete Canvas Workers Guide_, _Canvas and
Rope Craft_.  Available from:
    Northwest Sewing
    Box 25826
    Seattle 98125-1326


For making windsocks the following is also available from Daisy Kingdom:

Let's Make Windsocks
By Valerie J. Lund
Copyright date 1989
ISBN 0-9622405-0-8

Central Coast Creations
P.O. Box 3643
San Luis Obispo, Ca. 93403

Fabric for kite making from the FAQ for rec.kites.
  Into the Wind, 1408 Pearl Street, Boulder, CO  80302
  Go Fly a Kite, P.O. Box AA, East Haddam, CT  06423
  Hang-Em High Fabrics, 1420 Yale Avenue, Richmond, VA  23224
See the FAQ in rec.kites for many more recommendations about books and sources.


Compiled from postings or comments by:
[e-mail] (Susan A. Musil)
[e-mail] (Bobbie Morrison)
[e-mail] (Margaret Minsky)
[e-mail] (Kjell E. Grotland)
[e-mail] (Donna Devine)
Dave Uebele    uunet!sco!daveu  or [e-mail]
[e-mail] (Anne Louise Gockel)
[e-mail] (Brenda Romans) ([e-mail],[e-mail])
[e-mail] (Chris Miller)
[e-mail] (Grace Sylvan)


3) What's the best brand of sewing machines or sergers?

This question comes up frequently and there are many many answers.  This
summary mentions some of the names that have come up repeatedly, it is not an
exhaustive list.

For sewing machines, Bernina, Pfaff and Elna are all considered top of the
line sewing machines.  However the top of the line new machines start in the
$1500+ range (with list prices typically more) which puts them out of reach of
many non-professionals.

Note that many high-end dealers are willing to "bargain" with prospective
buyers so it can be helpful to shop around and carefully compare packages,
particularly in large cities that have substantial competition.  (The process
is often compared with the sort of "dealing" that is typical when purchasing a
new car.)  Because the margins can be very high, sales or special deals may
have discounts as high as 50%.

For people with a much lower budget a number of people have recommended the
Bernette or Pfaff Hobbymatic.  In the medium range Viking/Husquevarna has been
recommended several times.  Also a number of people have spoken highly of the
New Home machines (e.g. the Memory Craft 7500 and 8000) which tend to be as
much as $600 cheaper than the comparable Bernina, Pfaff and Elna models yet
have almost as many features.

Sew News has a regular column that includes reports about different sewing
machines and sergers. The June/July 1991 issue of Threads includes an article
discussing a reader's survey.  This article discusses the best machines
available under $300 and buying a used machine.  The Novemeber / December 1991
issue of Vogue Patterns lists many of the features of the high end
computerized sewing machines, including machines from Baby Lock, Bernina,
Necchi, New Home, Pfaff, Singer, Viking and White.  This article is a good
place to start when comparing the high-end machines.  The October / November
1992 issue of Threads includes an article explaining the differences between
mechanical, electronic and computerized sewing machines.

Many people favor buying a high end used sewing machine, particularly the
1950's and 1960's Singers (model 400 and 500 series) or a used Bernina, Pfaff
or Elna.  You can often purchase these from dealers in any reasonably large
city.  For example, I purchased a Singer Model 400 from the early 1960's for
about $150 in Seattle in 1990.  The older machines usually don't have
specialty embroidery stitches, but they often are extremely well made and sew
well with a wide variety of material.  Machines made in the 50's and 60's may
not have a stretch stitch; you may need to use a zig-zag when sewing knit
materials or activewear.  If you sew alot of clothing, pay particular
attention to the buttonholer on the used sewing machine.

A serger is a machine that produces a number of special stitches.  Some people
use the name "overlock machine" instead of "serger"; they are equivilent.  If
you look at the inside leg seam on a pair of commercial pants you will
usually find a seam that has been finished with a zig-zag like stitch that
binds the edges of the seams.  This seam was produced with a serger.

A serger is useful for many tasks, including a) sewing and finishing a seam in
one step, b) sewing knits (sergers naturally produce stretch stitches), c)
making a small, neat, rolled edge on items like table cloths, napkins, or
simple curtains and d) sewing *very* *very* quickly!  People who have sergers
often swear by them.  You cannot *replace* a sewing machine with a serger
since a serger can never do things like buttonholes and is not really
appropriate for tasks like topstitching or tailoring.

Home sergers are a fairly new invention; they've been available since the mid
1970's and have gained popularity rapidly since the mid-80's.  There have been
many changes in home sergers in the past few years.  In addition to the
high-end brands mentioned for sewing machines, many people have been happy
with Babylock, Hobbylock, or White sergers. The April / May 1992 issue of
Threads (#39) includes an article comparing many high-end four and five thread
sergers.  The June / July 1992 issue of Threads includes a number of letters
with additional comments about sergers.  The Winter/Holiday 1991 issue of
Butterick has a feature story on sergers, including an extensive comparison
chart.  Sew News regularly has articles about different models of sergers.

Each year Sew News publishes a chart that compares the features of some of the
most common brands of sewing machines or sergers.  The charts are available by
sending $2.00 for each chart (sewing machines or sergers) and a legal-sized
SASE to
    Sew News Machine Chart
       or
    Sew News Serger Chart
    Box 1790
    Peoria, IL 61656

For a phamplet entitled "Serger Update: What to Buy and Why --- A Generic
Guide to Buying or Upgrading" as well as the "1993 Serger Comparison Chart",
send $5 and legal-sized SASE with 58 cents postage to
    Sew News Serger Package
    Box 1790
    Peoria, IL 61656

These charts are somewhat limited. The following comments are based on the
1991 chart for sewing machines. Each chart is updated every other year.  The
chart is a single piece of paper 22"x17" and it contains a checklist of
several sewing machines and their features.  There is no "rating" along the
lines of Consumer Reports.  There is no manufacturer suggested list price.
The chart includes a selection of the most common machines, but only several
models from each company; many models and manufacturers are not listed.  The
1991 chart includes the following features in it's checklist: number of
stitches, max stitch width, automatic needle stop, # needle positions,
disengage feed dogs, reverse stitching (instant or continuous), buttonhole
styles, buttonhole making system, slow speed option, needle threader, basting
max length, low bobbin indicator, number of characters in membory, number of
standard presser feet, presser foot indicator, alphabet, numbers, mirror-image
patterning, single motif patterning, pattern elongation, pattern reduction,
retractable cords, machine weight, limited warranty & special features.

I know of no source that really tests, rates and compares sewing machines
along the lines of Consumer Reports.  CR does rate sewing machines, but
usually emphasizes mid-level machines that often seem to be rated by
average-level home sewers. Most articles in textile magazines (and this FAQ!)
discuss and list features, but do very little comparison or evaluation.  You
may wish to ask sewing instructors about their favorite features on their
favorite machines.




4) What are the addresses of various places?

Note: Unless noted otherwise, all addresses and phone numbers are in the USA.

Publications:

Threads & Folkwear Patterns
Taunton Press
63 South Main Street
Box 355
Newtown, CT 06470-9959
1-800-888-8286
[phone]  (front desk: ask for ordering or subscription;
        for problems ask for customer service)
FAX: [phone]
$24/year in Jan 1992 for Threads, 6 issues per year; $2 for a Folkwear
catalog. Taunton publishes quite a few books, including several books that are
collections of Threads articles.

Piecework & Handwoven
Interweave Press
201 East Fourth Street
Loveland, CO 80537
1-800-645-3675
[phone]  8-5 Mountain time
- Piecework magazine, Handwoven magazine and another spinning magazine
(Spin-Off?).  Publishes quite a few books for weavers, spinners and dyers.

Sew News
PO Box 3134
Harlan, IA  51537-3134
1-800-289-6397
Subscription or problem with subscription: 515-247-7569; FAX: [phone]
Advertising or other concerns: 309-682-6626
$17.83/year in Jan 1992, 12 issues per year (no longer in newspaper style)

Textile Fibre Forum
The Australian Forum for Textile Arts
PO Box 38
The Gap
Queensland, Australia, 4061
Three times a year; Basketry, Papermaking, Knitting, Weaving etc. as well as
teaching and making a living in the crafts.

German Language Publications, Inc.
560 Sylvan Avenue
Englewood Cliffs, NJ 07632
Burda: $60/year, 12 issues; $6/sample issue.  A number of other Burda
magazines for sewing and knitting (including kids, full figure, etc).  Each
issue of Burda contains many (20+) patterns that you can trace and make.  The
pattern sheets were re-designed in summer 1992 for better layout and more
consistant sizes (e.g.  each pattern available in 4 or 5 sizes; several
patterns on a special "snip and sew" sheet, etc). The sewing directions are
somewhat terse with minimal illustrations; patterns do not include seam
allowances.  Send for a sample issue to see if you like the format.

Vogue Patterns
Altoona, PA 16603
Approx $14 for 6 issues; each issue includes a 2-for-the-price-of-1 pattern
coupon (plus $2 for shipping and handling)

Butterick Patterns
PO Box 569
Altoona, PA 16603
Approx $9 for 4 issues; each issue includes a 2-for-the-price-of-1 pattern
coupon (plus $2 for shipping and handling)

McCalls Patterns
PO Box 3325
Manhattan, KS 66502-9917
1-800-MCCALL
Approx $10 for 4 issues; each issues includes a free pattern coupon ($1.50 for
shipping and handling).


Sewing related notions:

Nancy's Notions
PO Box 683-BK5
Beaver Dam, WI 53916
[phone]
FAX: [phone]
Business Line: 414-887-0391
- Free catalog.  Runs specials on prices and shipping several times a year.
Check the order form and read the catalog to be sure to find the discounts.
Excellent, thick catalog.  Also sells and rents sewing videos.

Clotilde
1909 SW First Ave.
Fort Lauderdale, Fl 33315-2100
[phone]
[phone]; M-F 8:30 - 5:00 EST
- Catalog costs $2, but they offer it free during certain times of the year.
Great place to find tailoring notions.  Most prices are discounted 10-20%
under retail prices.

The Perfect Notion
566 Hoyt Street
Darien, CT  06820
[phone]
- Catalog costs $1.  Has a good collection of helpful and hard to find
notions.  [As of April 1993, Perfect Notion may be for wholesalers only.  Call
before you order.]

TreadleArt
25834-I Narbonne Ave.
Lomita, CA  90717
[phone]
[phone]
- Catalog costs $3.  Great supply of sewing, quilting and needlework books.
Lots of applique patterns and unique sewing ideas.  Okay supply of notions.

Atlanta Thread and Supply Co.
695 Red Oak Road
Stockbridge, GA  30281
[phone]
[phone]
404-389-9115
FAX: [phone]
- Catalog is free.  Great supply of threads, especially of large serger cones.
Offers professional/industrial pressing equipment and sewing machines.  Hard
to find drapery notions.  Great if you sew for the home.

Thread Discount Sales
5960 E. Florence St.
PO Box 2277
Bell Gardens, CA  90201
[phone]
- No catalog, but offers free info sheets on heavily discounted sewing
machines, sergers and threads.  As of 1/92, machines are available only for
Calif residents (sorry!).  Thread available nationwide. Great if you want a
bargain.  Some industrial sewing machines available.

The Thread Shed
P. O. Box 898
Horse Shoe, NC 28742-0898
- cotton thread in large cones for quilting.  Many colors, 2000 and 6000 yard
spools.

Sewing Emporium
1079 Third Avenue
Chula Vista, CA  92010
[phone]
- Charges for their very thick catalog, but they'll sometimes send it
out free anyway (just ask!).  Excellent place to get all kinds of
pressor feet for your sewing machine.  They'll design and make any
pressor foot you can imagine.  Reasonable prices.  They also offer a
unique, giant cutting board set-up. Catalog costs $4.95 (Dec '93) and
contains a wealth of hints and tips on sewing.  The Sewing Emporium is a
source of large cutting mats at reasonable prices (they make their own)
and a source for just about any type of sewing machine foot and serger
foot.  Also has many, many sewing machine replacement parts and some
sewing furniture.

Britex Fabrics
San Francisco
415-392-2910
- LARGE collection of fabrics; will send swatches for mail order.

G-Street Fabrics
Rockville, MD
- LARGE collection of fabrics; will send swatches for mail order.


Sew/Fit Company
P.O. Box 397
Bedford Park, IL  60499
[phone] (order line)
[phone]
- various sewing supplies, including many pressure feet.

Home-Sew
P.O. Box 4099
Bethlehem, PA 18018-0099
Good source of general supplies and notions. Send 50 cents for their Sample
Club card. Carries some inexpensive entredeux and embroideries.

Speed Stitch
PO Box 3472
Port Charlotte, FL  33952
[phone]
- Catalog costs $3 and it hasn't been reprinted since 1989.  An excellent
source for machine embroidery products, though.

Aardvark Territorial Enterprize
PO Box 2449
Livermore, CA 94551-0241
[phone]; [phone]
- Catalog $2 per issue or for $12 per year.  You get the next 4 issues "free"
with each order.  Huge collection of beads, embellishments, miscellaneous craft
supplies, tools, books.  The catalog includes many tips and alot of
interesting information.

Lacis
2982 Adeline Street
Berkeley, CA 94703
[phone]
- supplies for lace and bobbin lace

Fabulous Furs
Donna Salyer
800-848-4650
- Fake furs designed to be almost as nice as traditional furs.

Mother Nurture Apperal and Patterns
Resources for Breastfeeding and Beyond
916 Royal Blackheath Court
Naperville, IL 60563-2304
[phone]
- Catalog cost is $3.00  lots of info to help new moms too.  Nursing and breast
feeding patterns

Elizabeth Lee Designs,
Patterns for the Breastfeeding Mother
PO Box 696
Bluebell, Utah, 84007
[phone]
- Also lots of info and if you buy three, get one free

Great Fit Patterns-SN
2229 NE Burnside, Suite 305
Gresham, OR  97030
- Catalog $1, sizes 38-60

Better Pak
675 Dell Rd.
Carlstadt, NJ 07072
[phone]
- gridded pattern paper, the kind used in the garment industry.  In summer '92,
$39 +s/h for a 600 foot roll of 45" wide gridded paper.  Split a roll with your
friends!


Canadian Mail Order Supplies:

Fabric Magic Creations  - beading supplies
10846 - 132A Street     - they also have a video on how you can apply
Surrey, BC                beads using your sewing machine
V3T 3Y3
604-584-9446

A Great Notion Sewing Supply Ltd.  - two day delivery locally
13847 17A Avenue
White Rock, BC
V4A 7H4
604-538-2829 ; FAX [phone]

Textile Outfitters Inc.  - outerwear patterns, fabrics, and notions
318A - 10th Street NW
Calgary, AB
T2N 1V8
403-270-2155; FAX [phone]

Sundrop Outerwear Textiles Inc.
#140 1140 Austin Ave
Coquitlam, BC
V3K 3P5
604-936-5236

The MacPhee Workshop      - inovative outerwear patterns/fabrics/notions
- several locations,        they're into painting, appliques, furs, etc
  head office address is:
  RR 8
  Edmonton, AB
  T5L 4H8
  403-973-3516 ; FAX [phone]

Naturebound     - they sell outerwear/packs/sleeping bag kits with the
PO 1299           pieces cut out for you
Brockville, ON
K6V 5W2
613-345-5487; 1-800-267-5487

Mary Maxim        - needlework, knitting, crochet, plastic canvas,
75 Scott Ave        rug hooking, kits
Paris, ON
N3L 3G5
519-442-2266; FAX [phone]

Canadian Knitting Club  - yarns (yearly fee gets you all the latest samples)
427 Carnegie St
Campbell River, BC
V9W 6N5

Briggs & Little Woolen Mills Ltd.
York Mills, Harvey Station, NB
E0H 1H0
1-800-561-YARN (in canada); phone & fax [phone]


Supplies for Dyeing Fabric:

Pro Chemical and Dye
P.O. Box 14
Somerset MASS 02726
[phone]
1-800-2BUY-DYE
- Catalog is free. Dyes for cottons, wools, silks, marbling, painting,
silkscreen, batik, etc.  Batik wax and fabric.

Rupert, Gibbon and Spider, Inc.
P.O. Box 425
Healdsburg, CA 95448
[phone]
- free catalog. Scarf blanks, dyes, equipment, paints.

Dharma Trading Company
(handling inquiries for Brooks and Flynn who are no longer in business; 3/93)
[phone]
- many different silk fabrics: scarves, clothing and yardage.

Cerelean Blue
P.O. Box 21168
Seattle WA 98111
[phone]
206-323-8600; FAX: [phone]
- free catalog

Earth Guild
33 Haywood St.,
Asheville, NC 28801
1-800-327-8448
- almost all dye supplies, including Lanaset dyes. Competitive prices.
Catalog has useful information.

Test Fabrics
PO Box 420
Middlesex, NJ 08846
[phone]
- very wide selection of prewashed fabrics with no dyes or finishes.  Very nice
fabric, but somewhat expensive.

Thai Silks
252 State St.
Los Altos, CA 94022
[phone] (in CA 800-221-7455)
415-948-8611
FAX: [phone]
- Large selection of silk scarves for dyeing.  Also other types of (colored)
silk fabric for sewing!

Exotic Silks
1959 Leghorn Street
Mountain View, CA 94043
800-845-SILK
415-965-7760; FAX: [phone]
- Low prices; discounts for orders over 15 yards of a single fabric.  Some
(all?) orders require a $100 minimum per order.  I believe this is the
wholesale arm of Thai Silks.  If you do not have a business you might not be
able to order from Exotic Silks.



Sources For Books, including Out of Print Needlework Books:

Hard-To-Find-Needlework-Books
Bette Feinstein
96 Roundwood Rd.
Newton MA 02164
[phone]
- Used books in a wide range of textile subjects.  Some remaindered books, but
most of the books are used.  Sewing, quilting, embroidery, knitting, etc.
Catalogs for specific crafts are available one or two times a year.

Wooden Porch Books
Lois Meuller
RT1 Box 262
Middlebourne, WV  26149
- Charges $3 for next 3 catalogs.  Used books I believe.

R.L.Shep
Box 668
Mendocino, CA 95460
- 1990-91 catalog has 1000 items.  $2.50 catalog.  Books, magazines and
reprints.  Books related to the costume and textile arts, including out of
print and hard to find books.  Shep has also reprinted a number of older
clothing books, including a couple of books of patterns for Victorian and
Edwardian clothing.  Catalog warns that Shep is sometimes slow at shipping; I
believe it suggests 4-6 weeks to fill orders.


Unicorn Books
1338 Ross St
Petaluma, CA  94954-6502
1-800-289-9276 (1-800-BUY-YARN)
707-762-3362; FAX: [phone];
Hours (as of 3/93): 9am - 5pm Pacific Std Time, Mon - Fri
- Includes basketry, business of crafts, color, costume, dyeing, embroidery,
fabric decoration, fashion, history, ethnic, hand and machine knitting, lace
making, quilting, spinning and weaving, tailoring, pattern drafting, plus even
other stuff. A 48 page catalog of closely-typeset descriptions (newspaper
style), all of fiber-related books.  As of 1992 there appear to be separate
catalogs one each for sewing- and weaving- related crafts. Unicorn has
reasonable return policies, cheap shipping, and extensive descriptions.  Most
(all?) of the books are new, but many of the books are no longer listed in
Books In Print and are difficult to find elsewhere.

Purchase for Less
231 Floresta
Portola Valley, CA 94028
- $2 for catalog.  Current sewing and textile books heavily discounted.



Dover Publications
31 East 2nd St
Mineola, NY 11501
- Dover reprints older books that are no longer covered by the original
copyright.  Most of Dover's books are low-priced paperbacks.  You may wish to
request the Needlework Catalog and the Pictorial Archive Catalog.


Taunton Press
(see address above)


Interweave Press
(see address above)



Discontinued Patterns:

Sandra Betzina notes that most pattern companies retain copies of their
patterns for about a year.  You can check with your fabric store or call the
pattern companies to check their discontinued stock.
    Vogue and Butterick              814-943-5281
    McCalls                 212-880-2624
    Simplicity, Style and New Look         1-800-223-1664
    Simplicity                1-800-334-3150
    Burda discontinued patterns are not available


EZ Patterns
118 Florence Ave
Evanston IL 60602
See comments in "Questions" column in June/July 1992 Threads (#40). EZ
Patterns buys and sells discontinued patterns.  Send them the pattern number,
company name, sizes and a brief description or sketch.  Note that pattern
numbers are reused, so you'll need to include the name, number AND
description!  If you know the year of issue and/or original price this will
help.  EZ Patterns discourages sending in a request without a pattern number.

Several people have mentioned checking Thrift Stores and estate sales for
old patterns.

For out of print Folkwear patterns, Taunton Press recommends that you call or
write to:
    The Yardstick
    P.O. Box 912
    Ketchem, Idaho  83340
    [phone]
or
    Two Bobbins Full
    323 Main Street
    Polson, Montana  59860
    [phone]
and include pattern info.  Apparently both places say they have a "drawer
full" of old Folkwear patterns.


See also:

The New Fiberworks Sourcebook by Bobbi A. McRae. copyright 1993 by
Fiberworks Publications. ISBN 0-944577-06-7  320p. $15.95 + shipping
Available from the publisher:
        Fiberworks Publications
        P.O. Box 49770E
        Austin, TX 78765
    (512)  343-6112
Mail order sources for all types of fibers and crafts, including weaving,
spinning, dyeing, knitting, basketry, quilting, basketry, sewing, paper
making, etc.

The Fabric and Fiber Sourcebook by Bobbi A. McRae.  copyright 1989 by Taunton
Press.  ISBN 0-942391-18-7 $12.95.  Out of print.  See New Fiberworks
Sourcebook (above) which is the latest edition of this book.


The Quilter's Catalog by Vicki Brooks and Linda Stokes. Copyright 1987 by The
Main Street Press. ISBN 1-55562-003-5 $12.95
- Often available as a remaindered book.  This book contains lots of sources
for quilters, but the info in it is getting a bit dated.


Designer Source Listing: $19.95 (ppd) from:
    Carikean Publishing
    Box 11771
    227 E. Ontario St
    Chicago, IL 60611-0771
    312-728-6118
Sections include Beads, Books, Buttons and fasteners, Feather fur and leather,
Notions, Labels and tags, Laces and lacemaking equipment, Millinery supplies,
Paints and dyes, Patterns, Services, Software, Threads and yarns, Video,
Workshops and seminars.  I have not personally reviewed this book and I do not
know when the current edition (Vol IV) was published.

Look through the ads in Sew News or the back of Threads.

Acknowledgements; List compiled by:
Anne Louise Gockel ([e-mail])
Diane Barlow Close ([e-mail])
Marie-Christine ([e-mail])
[e-mail] (Charleen Bunjiovianna)
[e-mail] (Marina Salume)
[e-mail] (Rudy E. Chukran)
[e-mail] (Fran Peterson)
[e-mail]
[e-mail] (Sharon Zakhour)
[e-mail]
[e-mail] (Melinda Meahan)


5) What are the best periodicals and sources for Heirloom Sewing (also known
   as French Hand Sewing) projects?

Heirloom sewing beganas an attempt to recreate some antique clothing, usually
the white dresses with lace inserts all over the place.  There are many new
patterns available. You use fine, lightweight fabrics like cotton voile or
batiste, silk, or the "baby" wale corduroy.  You add ruffles made from fine
imported French laces, and maybe a touch of delicate hand embroidery. Bullion
knot roses and shadow embroidery are very popular.  About half the patterns
have smocking on them, usually on the yoke of a dress.

It helps to have a good sewing machine, that can handle delicate fabrics and
do some fancy stitching. Originally heirloom sewing was all done by hand (e.g.
French Hand Sewing) but there are several books out now on how to do it by
machine. Using a machine is a slow process, but it is faster than doing the
work by hand.

Periodicals Recommended:
    Sew Beautiful
    Subscription Dept. 518
    Madison St.
    Huntsville, AL 35801-4286
    (205)-533-9586

    Creative Sewing
    Box 99
    Lookout Mountain, TN 37350
    1-800-443-3127

Both of these publications cover heirloom sewing, and also include other types
of sewing techniques. Lots of how-to articles and inspirational photos. Both
also include one or more free patterns bound into each issue.  The Singer
Reference Library book _Decorative Machine Sewing_ includes a section on
Heirloom Sewing.


Mail Order Sources for Fabrics, Laces and Supplies:

    The Unique Needle
    539 Blossom Way
    Hayward, CA 94541
    415-727-9130
    Rumor has it she has a mailing list.

    Sweet Child of Mine        or    Sweet Child of Mine
    139 East Fremont Avenue            3720 Miramesa Ct. Bldg 116
    Sunnyvale, CA 94087            Santa Clara, CA 95051
    408-720-8426
    Hours: Mon, Tues, Wed from 11-4:30; Sat. 12:30-3:30 pm

    Home-Sew
    P.O. Box 4099
    Bethlehem, PA 18018-0099
    carries some inexpensive entredeux and embroideries.  Might be good for
    practice for someone who is just embarking on heirloom sewing.


Nancy's Notions (address above) sells entredeux.
Carolea's is a well known place in Sunnyvale, California, but the laces
    and entredeux there can be a bit more expensive than mail order
    sources.

For patterns for clothing for the American Dolls from the Pleasant Company:
    Fancywork and Fashion
    4728 Dodge Street
    Duluth, MN  55804
    [phone]
    $2 for catalog

A nice nightgown pattern called "Julie's Gown" is available from:
    Susan Oliver
    A Work of Heart Studio
    P.O. Box 1477
    Nevada City, CA 95959
    [phone]

Also check some of the speciality pattern companies such as Campbells (see the
FAQ on historical costuming).

Acknowledgements:
[e-mail] (Marina Salume)
Diane Barlow Close ([e-mail])
Kathie (address unknown)
[e-mail] (Coni Britten)
[e-mail] (Charleen Bunjiovianna)



6) Where can I get natural fabrics by mail order?

Sewing Sampler Productions
PO Box 39,
Springfield, MN 56087
[phone]  or [phone]
Retail and mail order. $3.50 UPS shipping charge (USA) per order.

Regular line of Cotton Club interlock and French Terry (100% Cotton) with
matching ribbing. Excellent quality; seems to equal Hanna quality. Interlock
and French Terry are $9 yd (1992); supplex is 5.50/yd. They carry Oshkosh and
Healthtex fabrics as well as notions like snaps, collars and woven patches.

Three catalogs (basics, fashion fabrics, kids). Two swatching services for $10
each.  Several newsletters also.  Please mention me (Grace Sylvan, Lewiston
Drive, San Jose, CA) if you decide to subscribe to the swatching service (and
I get a small credit, thanks to you, and you get wonderful swatches delivered
to your door).


Sew Natural Fabrics by Mail
4650 Bishop Road,
Mechanicsville MD 20659
[phone]  or  [phone]
$3.50 UPS shipping charge (USA) per order.

A home business that seems to be expanding into imported cotton laces and
pearl buttons and other fancies. (send an SASE for lace and button info).

Interlocks, French Terry; several weights, close in quality to Sewing Sampler,
but fewer colors, and lower cost. Material $5.50 a yard; interlocks generally
$5-$7 a yard (1992).  Some matching ribbings (or use the interlock instead).
Good selection of wovens - chambray, denim, flannel, shirtings, etc.  Petit
Bateau striped rib knit, for 3.24/yd (May 92).  The Petit Bateau rib seems to
wash and wear extremely well, comparable to Hannas.  Ultrex, a breathable,
waterproof microcoated supplex, good for rain/snow gear and diaper covers.

Notions include elastic, the _Easy Sewing_ book series, Stretch & Sew and Kwik
Sew patterns.  Swatch sets: $1 each for knits, knit stripes, or wovens/linens.


Jennifer's Fabric by Mail
53 Yorkshire Rd,
Lexington, Ohio  44904
[phone]
$3.50 UPS shipping charge (USA) per order.

A home run business, pretty new (1992). Unique catalog: a) lists which
fabrics will coordinate, and b) lists how stretchy the fabric is.

Interlocks usually $6.50-$8/yd range, a few for $3-$4/yd; matching ribbing for
most.  Some fabric that was used Soupcon outfits from last year.  Some striped
interlocks, Kwik Sew patterns, some sewing books, and no notions (so far).
Complete swatch sets are $3.50, free with an order.


Acknowledgements:
[e-mail] (Tigger (Grace Sylvan))
    You may wish to write to Grace for the most up to date info.


7) Would anyone like to exchange quilt blocks?  Is there a quilting maillist?

The QuiltNet maillist is best described as a general quilting support group;
discussions concentrate on quilting, but may include some friendly or chatty
mail files. Q-Xchg is a maillist strictly for organizing fabric and quilt
block exchanges.

To subscribe to the QUILTNET maillist, send the following command to
[e-mail]
        SUB QUILTNET firstname lastname
To leave the list at any time, use the following command:
        UNSUB QUILTNET

To subscribe or unsubscribe to the Q-XCHG maillist, follow the same
directions, but substitute the name Q-XCHG for QUILTNET.

Administrative Note: The QuiltNet maillist started at Dartmouth in August 1990
and moved to Cornell in June 1992.  In December 1993 it moved again to it's
current home at Emory.  The Q-Exchange maillist was created in December 1993.
The current maillist administrator is Becky Brunner.

Of course, quilters are also encouraged to use rec.crafts.quilting for
quilting discussions and exchanges.


8) I've just been given my Great Grandmother's sewing machine.  Can anyone
help me fix it or restore it?

> Gosh, the machine I have must be about 60 years old.  It's a
> treadle machine that has been motorized.  I do not know if I
> want to remove the motor or not.  Also, the veneer on the
> cabinet is in pretty bad shape.  I'm going to have it replaced.
> Do you have any suggestions?

Well, first of all, anything you do to the machine lessens its
value as an antique (so I was told) so the first thing to do is
to decide whether you want the antique value of the machine or
just a really nice, spiffy looking treadle.

In my case I wanted a really nice, spiffy looking treadle that
could double as my everyday sewing cabinet and also be a nice
showpiece.  I don't care about the supposed antique value.  My
Grandmother had abused her treadle and it had been stored for 40
years in my Dad's workshop so you can imagine what it looked
like!  Gouged, paint-splattered cabinet, dust everywhere, rusted
grill work and the head was covered in black grime.

The first thing I did was take lots of photos of it from all
angles so I would know how to put it back together after taking
it apart.  Next I took it apart.  Then I used very mild paint
stripper (3M special gel-type) to remove the varnish from the
cabinet pieces and the paint from the iron grill work.

I should state right now that you should TEST ALL CHEMICAL YOU
PLAN TO USE ON THE MACHINE IN AN INCONSPICUOUS PLACE FIRST!!  The
paints and varnishes of yesteryear are quite different from those
that exist today.  Often today's stuff is far too strong for
those old finishes to handle.

After removing all the paint, I washed the whole thing off with a
water-dishsoap mixture and rinsed it all thoroughly.  Then I
dried everything and let the grill work ``age'' for a few days
(lets the iron ``set'' properly).  Then I spray painted the iron
work with a rust protector followed by a black acrylic gloss.  I
then sanded the cabinet and ``varnished'' it with a cherry wood
urethane.

I should mention that most veneers in those days were cherry wood
veneers, whereas most today are of oak.  Cherry wood is very
expensive these days so you might have problems replacing the
veneer.  I filled in small holes with wood filler and large ones
with a combination of glue, wood chips and wood pieces and sanded
carefully.

Now for the machine head:  I should put in here that whatever you
do, DON'T clean the machine head with alcohol!!!!  The old paints
and varnishes that were used at that time are very sensitive to
alcohols and such.  DON'T USE THEM TO CLEAN YOUR MACHINE!!!

I used wd-40 to work through the top layers of grime.  Boy was I
surprised to find gorgeous gold decals of phoenix's rising from
the ashes and such.  I VERY GENTLY scrubbed away the rest of the
grime using water and dishwashing soap.  I let the whole thing
dry for two days and then covered the head (brushed on) with
several coats of future floor polish.  Then I oiled the heck out
of the insides using sewing machine oil.

Voila!  A mear 4 months later (and I thought it was going to be a
weekend project! :-) it looks gorgeous!  Of course the antique
lovers are horrified but I'm very, very happy with the project.

Now, if you want to keep the antique value of your machine you
are going to have to take a different tact:  immediately go to
the library and get as many books as you can on restoring
antiques.  Talk to antique dealers.  Etc.  This is what I did at
first and is what helped me decide that keeping the antique
``value'' was too much work and bother.  It can be very rewarding
for the right person and the right project, but it just wasn't
for me.

Singer Service Centers actually still do repair and restore
antique machines -- the _real_ service centers (the ones run by
Singer, not the ones running in back of a sewing store) have to
service and repair all machines made by Singer, not just the
current batch.

As for whether or not to remove the motor:  most early treadles
were indeed ``motorized'' aftermarket.  That's how the first
machines were ``upgraded'' so the owners didn't have to go out
and buy one of the ``new'' motorized ones and junk their old
machine.  You'll have to look at the job very carefully as
removing the motor and restoring the machine back to its
treadle state might not be as easy as you think.  That's where
pictures and information about the original machine would help.

> Are there any books on this stuff?  My treadle doesn't have a
> manual.  Is there anything I can do?

Singer Company itself can get you a copy of the original manual
if you know the model number.  Not a catch 22 like you think; a
call to your local Singer Service Center and a brief description
of the machine results in a model # in most cases (for example,
the woman in charge asked what kind of bobbin my machine used and
how it loaded (front or side of machine) and from that said ``oh,
you have a #128 vibrating shuttle model.''  The charge for an
owner's manual is generally around $4.  Singer can be reached at
1-908-287-0707 to get the number of the offical service center
nearest you. (In Canada call [phone].)

You can also look in the library for books about old sewing
machines.  There's a book available through the Santa Clara
County Library (Cupertino branch) called _Machine Sewing_ by the
Singer Sewing Machine Co. and published in 1923 and updated to
contain all Singer machines through 1938.  It tells you
everything you'd ever want to know about those machines and their
attachments.  Get it on interlibrary loan if you're interested.
(Santa Clara County library system, Cupertino branch, Card
catalogue # 646.21 SINGER)


This information was contributed by:
Diane Barlow Close ([e-mail])


9) Where can I get an up to date copy of this FAQ?

There are four textile related FAQs. The first list concentrates on general
sewing questions and supply information and restoring antique sewing machines.
The second list concentrates on costuming and historical clothing.  The third
posting contains a list of books that cover sewing, fitting and pattern
drafting.  The fourth is an index to quilting FAQs that are maintained by
various individuals and are available by email request.

When looking for an FAQ list, first do the obvious and check the relevant
newsgroup for articles with "FAQ" in the subject line.  If you don't know how
to check articles marked as read, your sysadmin can tell you. Next, try the
group news.answers since this FAQ is crossposted there.  Again, your sysadmin
can tell you the commands to use in searching.

If you cannot find the FAQ on your system, you can retrieve a copy from
Jonathan Kamen's archive of periodic postings.  For general instructions on
the server, send email containing the commands "help" and "send index" (no
quotes, separate lines) to
    [e-mail]
For a list of all periodic postings that are archives in news.answers, email
the command "send usenet/news.answers/index" to the server.

via anonymous FTP:
Periodic postings including FAQs are archived at "rtfm.mit.edu" (currently
available at 18.70.0.209), in the directory "/pub/usenet". The textile FAQs
are:
    /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/faq
    /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/historical-costuming
    /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part1
    /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part2
    /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/quilting-faq-index

via email server:
The address of the server is [e-mail].  To retrieve files,
send email to the server with a blank subject and one or more of these lines
in the body:
    send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/faq
    send usenet/news.answers/crafts/historical-costuming
    send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part1
    send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part2
    send usenet/news.answers/crafts/quilting-faq-index

----------------------------------------------------------------
                    -Anne Louise Gockel
                    Cornell Computer Science

Internet: [e-mail]        UUCP: cornell!alg